Monday, May 16, 2011

AW11 MR2 Build - "Akemi" Part 14

replaced all the bleeder valve o-rings. now they are super hard to turn but i guess that means its a good seal. However now I'm noticing that when I'm not on a downhill surface the RPM's drop sporadicaly. Like it will be fine then the RPM's will drop and maybe even kill the car if I don't blip the throttle. This will happen anywhere from every 5-20 seconds or not at all. Is this a bubble in my coolant still? I've been bleeding this shit every fucking day and I'm still getting air out of the system every time. Not alot, but some. It's not as bad with the lights off/blower fan off but it still happens. WHYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY

OK so as I was burping my coolant today, I left my cap off and bleeder valves open (to purge air and yes I was keeping it topped up) to see if i could see bubbles while the car was running. interestingly it was like one bubble bubble bubble........ and it stopped when i turned the car off. This is leading me to think that I do in fact have a blown head gasket that is leaking combustion gases into the coolant. So is there any way to confirm that without, you know, removing 50% of the contents of my engine bay? Cuz that would be FANTASTIC. Besides, if I do end up having to replace the HG I will probably just drop the motor and do the water pump, cam seals, distributor seals, timing belt, etc all at the same time.

so last night i noticed my ebrake was frozen when i stopped at a light on the way to dollar burger night and my left rear wheel was smoking and smelled like death. I've known that this is like THE most common problem with AW11's but it had never happened to me yet so here we go. I guess I'll just have to leave the ebrake off when I park. good to know. I guess im now in the club lol.


Santa brought me new recreation floormats and H&T rear sway bar end links!

WHELP......when I replaced the air bleeder valve o-ring on the radiator I noticed that it wouldn't let me close it all the way without massive force. and like a dumbass I forced it. turns out i messed up the o-ring pretty bad and it gave out today as I was bleeding it. FAAAAANTASTIC so now its leaking. I ordered another one....but now its leaking......FML


did the tester thing to see if i have combustion gases in my coolant and the result was "not really". I left it on for longer than it said just to be sure and it never turned yellow, so thats good.

also bought a new brake MC. will probably put it on tomorrow

got the new MS installed. haven't driven it yet. Couldn't bleed at first but Pierce told me about "bench bleeding?" and I was all *facepalm*.
guess i failed at bench bleeding or whatever so now the pedal goes all the way to the floor. also there were little things that came with the MC for bleeding that i didnt notice till AFTER everything was i guess i will do that tomorrow

ha never updated this....MC works great no problems

also after the autocross, I can say that repositioning the rear sway bar end link mountings may have helped a bit, the car felt less prone to understeer, with nice controlable oversteer sometimes, and quick direction changing. pretty awesome

re-installed my check engine light, jumpered the terminals and got this

looks to me like 12 and 71....71 is EGR something (which is supposedly CA car only which I'm 99% sure mine isn't)...had that for a while...12 is "RPM signal"?? asking around on MR2OC for advice right now...

Also put my nifty new button in there AND re-soldered the connections in my wiper switch while everything was out.

response on MR2OC
Papo J wrote:
No Ne or G signal to the ECU from the distributor within 2 seconds of engine cranking. Make sure the connectors between the distributor and igniter and wire harness are secured and clean, also make sure the distributor pickups are clean and the spacing is withing spec.

I will check those things when I change the oil next (this weekend or next). Is the ignitor the square thing that looks like a heatsink on the right hand side of the engine bay?

Weird thing - after hooking everything back up I went to the auto parts store to get oil/filter (around 30 min of driving total) and the CEL never came on. Shouldn't it be on if I have codes?

used Pierces timing light gun thingy and checked my looks all good according to BGB specs

got the grounding kit in....wires are like MONDO long...idk if i want to use it....I guess I could get the ends and heat shrink wrap stuff and make them the length I need i guess....

also my alternator is acting up started overcharging sporadically again yesterday accompanied by the 3 lights of doom......i just changed it like 10 months ago.... it may be because i leak oil from my distributor which is RIGHT above it......idk its just seriously annoying. BUT if I DO have to replace it again, I can finally fix my oil pressure gauge lol
gonna try and clean up the + cable/battery terminals today, as well as re-clean the - cable connections on the battery, chassis, and trans and see if that helps

it wasn't overcharging at all this morning on the way to and from work, but then on the way to class this afternoon it was i turned around, pulled out the alt, and ordered a new one. should be here sometime near the end of the week.
Also I found the wire that goes to the oil pressure gauge! it was hiding behind the AC compressor

OK I talked to the forum Toyota guy and here are the parts with prices for everything
Toyota Stuff
11115-16070 HEAD GASKET - $49.82
16341-16020 WATER OUTLET GASKET - $3.55
96761-24035 O-RING, WATER OUTLET - $2.34
96711-24013 O-RING, WATER OUTLET - $2.05
11182-16020 WATER OUTLET GASKET - $2.83
90311-35040 CAM SEAL (2 req’d) - $5.16ea, $10.32 total
23291-41010 INJECTOR INSULATOR, BOTTOM (4 req’d) - $2.65ea, $10.60 total
90480-13005 INJECTOR GROMMET, TOP (4 req’d) - $2.65ea, $10.60 total
90301-07001 O-RING, INJECTOR, TOP (4 req’d) - $2.43ea, $9.72 total
17177-16012 GASKET, INTAKE MANIFOLD - $7.98
17173-16011 GASKET, EXHAUST MANIFOLD - $12.57
90917-06039 GASKET, EXHAUST DONUT (2 req’d) - $3.55ea, 7.10 total
17849-16010 GASKET, THROTTLE BODY INLET - $1.90
22271-16030 GASKET, THROTTLE BODY OUTLET - $2.12
17857-16010 GASKET, SUPERCHARGER INLET - $2.68
16100-19115-83 WATER PUMP - $93.81
Toyota total = $234.92

TwosRUs Stuff

ARP Headstuds - $130
Distributor seal rebuild kit - $24.99
total = $154.99

TOTAL PARTS COST = $389.91 (not including shipping)
this also does not include new coolant, oil, and SC oil which I will need, OR machine shop bill.

Toyota is now $277.22 richer. had to add manifold-to-head bolts/studs/nuts/washers AND manifold-to-downpipe studs/nuts.

next paycheck is ARP headstuds and dizzy seals

rod knock is getting worse. still not BAD but its there. looking into rod bearings. Apparently it's not that bad to do with the engine in the car. I just gotta make sure I get the right bearings for what the clearances are. I was told to use this stuff to figure out what size I need (toyota makes 3 different sizes)
ordered some plastigauge. probably gonna have to wait until i get everything taken apart (prob next weekend) before I can get bearings. There is supposedly a number stamped in the cap, and that number corrosponds to the size bearing i need. I hope they'll have them in stock at Toyota, otherwise I'll have to wait until they come in the mail.....which would REALLY suck

check it, yo
plastigauge came in today

it's like Christmas morning from Toyota over here right now

Well out of sheer curiosity, I unplugged my EGR gas temp sensor (the thing that was tripping my CEL) just to see what would 5 min of letting it run in the driveway the CEL never came on......this makes me wonder if removing the EGR altogether would throw a CEL....I'm gonna drive it tomorrow with it unplugged and see what happens.

just got paid and just ordered the ARP headstuds, distributor rebuild kit, and O2 sensor. $234. >.<

TwosrUs ships so stinking fast.....
front engine mount was squeaking like a mofo (urethane inserts remember) so i changed how it sits and now it only squeaks when I shift. i wonder if my drivers side mount is going and thats why....

also installed new O2 sensor yesterday. went WAY smoother than I expected (note: PB blaster is THE shit)

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